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For sale is a Cummins engine. It is a four cylinder engine labeled L423D P 50049F, serial number 0053124085. According to this page that I pulled off the net, this engine is a 60 HP engine at 2600 RPM.
This engine came off a huge 6,000 gallon military water tank trailer . It was attached to a 600 GPM pump. So, as you can understand, it would be unlikely to have seen much use.
I called a Cummins rep. Randy and here's what I found out. It is a 4A (A series) Cummins Engine. 2.3 liter. Made on Feb 9, 1990. It has 44 HP at 2,400 RPM output (in contrast to the paragraph above!!!). The complete manual for it is code 3810398, available at Gannett 1-800-646-5609. It has a Standadyne fuel pump. DISCLAIMER: it is my job to provide you information such as model number and serial number. It is YOUR RESPONSIBILITY to figure out the proper application for this engine and to know what it is and is not suitable for. So, do your own research to ascertain whether it fits your application.
It came to me from a Great Lakes military base. I bought this engine from the military, as I buy and resell military surplus equipment for fun and profit. It was in a sealed crate. (it will be shipped in the same crate). You can see the top of the crate in the first video. The engine is used, but appears to not have signs of prolonged use (not too much soot in the exhaust manifold, a lot of original paint still there). I have no idea how much it was used. There is some rust on the bare metal mating surface (where a shaft attaches to the engine flywheel).
Upon inspection, the engine was found to have the following:
Based on my experience with my Onan DJE Diesel Generator , I tried to start it as follows:
That got the engine started quite easily, despite 35 degree F cold weather. It purred for a short while "hunting" for a good speed. Finally it settled at some idle speed and ran. It was actually rather quiet for a 4 cylinder diesel without a muffler. It also has a very low vibration, it was standing on a bunch of blocks and did not move at all during testing (though you see the fuel bottle move). It responded nicely to change in the position of the governor and ran fine at high speeds. After it started up, the exhaust was clear, it was not belching white or black smoke, except when just started or being cranked. I ran it for a few minutes at high and low speeds, without load.
The engine block heater consumes about 500 watts, according to my power meter.
The military paid whopping $13,000 for this engine. You will buy it for a fraction of that cost. :NIIN:
It was used on some Onan generators, here's what I pulled off google:
Onan Generator Model #: 20DL4L31777D Onan Engine Model #: L423D-I/108900 Engine Serial #: B883331856 1 & 3 Phase (Rated for both), 60 Hz, Current Voltage 120/208, 20 kW, 25 kVa, 12 Lead Reconnectable, 30 Amps @ 480 Volts Auto Start/Stop, Safety Shut Down, 12 Volt Alternator, Engine Mounted Air Cleaner, 80 Amp Circuit Breaker, Standard Generator Panel, Standard Engine Panel, Engine Mount Radiator, Skid Mounted Genset Dimensions: 5'L x 30" W x 42" H
It can probably be used on hydraulic equipment, boats, etc. Applications decisions are up to you. You can easily get 20 kW electric power out of Cummins L423D and have great overload capacity for starting heavy motor loads.
You can wire it the following way: get a two button "control station" with a single pole START and single pole STOP button. Wire the START button to be normally open and to activate the starter with and short circut the oil pressure switch. Wire the STOP button to be normally closed and to be connected to the battery through the oil pressure switch and the overheat switch. Pressing the STOP button would shut off fuel supply and stop the engine. I think that would be the way I would do it -- though you could do it differently. Similar wiring could provide for the remote start capability. Add a momentary switch for glow plugs (you need a beefy version rated for 12VDC and substantial current) for activating glow plugs.
I can wire up a control station on a flat piece of steel or aluminum for $250 that will be guaranteed to be very easy to use and start/stop the engine and that will work. Beware, this price is very high compared to the cost of doing it yourself (a day of pleasant work and a few switches). Do not forget to wire in your low oil switch and your overtemp switch. GET A MANUAL (my buddy Al is selling them on eBay as n2gravely)!
I am NOT an expert in generators, I am just sharing my very limited experience.
The weight of this engine is listed as 800 lbs. With the crate, I figure a safe estimate is 900 lbs. I am providing a Freightquote calculator for your entertainment, BUT I AM NOT BOUND BY THEIR QUOTE. You, the BUYER WILL PAY ALL SHIPPING COSTS. Weight is only an estimate and could be less or more. I can help you lower your cost by delivering this engine, crated, to a nearby shipping terminal for $50. Freightquote usually surprises me with how low their shipping costs are. Your actual cost may well be below what eBay calculator says. My agent there is Jim Williams and he is excellent.
Local pickup is free and I will help to load using a shop crane. If you use a shipping company that can pick up at my house, there is no charge, but like I said, I will charge $50 if you want me to deliver it to a shipping terminal close to me. (usually it saves you a bunch).
I guarantee that you will be able to start this engine (read the manual and use glow plugs as necessary) but you can start it, since I could. I do NOT guarantee that the engine has given compression or can put out its rated 60 HP on a dynamometer since I do not own one. It may have other problems that I did not notice. So, the engine is sold AS IS, with ALL FAULTS.
On the videos, for some reason, the sound "cuts out" at some point during the video. It is the fault of my camera, the engine does not stop when you stop hearing sound.
Click on the animated gifs to see actual videos.They are not that big. You can use VLC Video Player for Unix and Windows to play these movies, they are in DivX format to save bandwidth.
